Thursday, February 27, 2020

Antietam National Battlefield

Two years ago I bought a full middle school curriculum. The idea being that I’d pay a fee and have someone else plan out my whole year...less researching for me, less organizing, less planning; and, all this would result in a smoother, less stressful school planning experience. Yeah. Rainbows, sparkles and sunshine it was NOT! I forgot I’m waaaaaaay too Type A to feel alright about someone else planning my days. Good thing it was cheap, also this is probably why it didn’t work the way I dreamed it would. After digging through the pages of instructions and documents, one of my first thoughts was....who in the world would spend an entire year on the Civil War?! 

Well, as it turns out....this family would. And is. However, I wasn’t able to use this full curriculum as the core plan. Instead, I’ve spent hours and hours reading books, watching documentaries, searching the internet and putting together what I think has been a pretty thorough walk through a very dark time in our American history. 

Living in Mississippi allowed us to see places like Corinth, Meridian, Tupelo and Jackson. The cemetery that inspired Finch to write “The Blue and the Grey”, about the women of our city, Columbus, decorating the graves of Confederate and Union soldiers alike, was a few minutes drive from our home. We managed to slide in some New Orleans history on a dance competition trip. Now, living near where the two Civil War capitals were located, we have so many opportunities to walk where so many died fighting for their side. 

Today’s trip was to Antietam Battlefield, where we step back to September 17, 1862, the bloodiest day in American history. 

We hopped into the car at 815, turned on our Harry Potter audiobook and took off....slowly. A rainy day in SOMD meant slow moving traffic around D.C. What was supposed to be a 2 hour and 20 minute drive turned into a 3 hour 15 minute drive. Thank goodness we have an EZ Pass because taking the express lanes around the west side of DC shaved off almost 45 minutes from a drive that, as I was getting on 495, had jumped to a 4 hour drive. Lesson learned....rain + DC = interstate parking lots. 



We managed to arrive at the visitor’s center just minutes before the half hour video started playing in the theater. The lady at the front desk was so nice and just let us run in the theater to watch the movie before we even paid for our tickets. The video took us from the first moments of the day, through bloody battle after bloody battle, until the last shot of the day was fired. (Hey, Garytt, that’s Darth Vader narrating the movie. Garytt: 😲 How did they get DARTH VADER to do their movie?!?!). It wasn’t until we sat down that I thought: I wonder if they’ll show actual pictures from that day. I’d managed to keep the goriest pictures from the kids up to this point. But, there was no sheltering it from them sitting in the fourth row of the theater and having battlegrounds covered in death and missing limbs shown at 15’x20’.

After the movie, we toured the small museum. It gave a picture of what the war did to the local people. The people who took refuge in caves, who had their entire livelihood erased, and who came together in the aftermath to rebuild their lives and bury the dead. 

Next up...the vehicle tour. Since Garytt was giving me what I’m assuming is the beginning stages of his teenage attitude, I gave him the map so he could direct me through the 8 1/2 mile tour. He felt the power!

First stop is Dunker Church, the small local church that changed hands several times throughout the day. We walked around the building and then went inside. The kids said it smelled like old wood. 


Next, we drove around the North Woods, where Union troops spent the night before the fight, then we went to the Poffenberger Farm, where Gen. Hooker began his assault. <The auto tour is set up so you move around the area as time moved that day....chronological....that’s the word I’m looking for.>

The Angel of the Battlefield is said to have set up a lot of medical assistance here. There is a nice memorial to Clara Barton that explains what she did during the battle and then afterwards.



From here we drove past the East Woods toward the Mumma Farm. There are so many monuments all over the battlefield. The kids were getting annoyed at my need to take pictures of them all. Silly me....I found a monument hunt game in my research, but left it all at home. 🤦🏻‍♀️ I also had a document called “Interview with a Monument” where the kids found the most interesting monument and answered several questions about it. Forgot that one too. I forgot them all. I was probably foolish in thinking they’d both agree to pick up a pencil on a trip anyway. 


We found the Mississippi monument. This is the 11th Mississippi Infantry Regiment, Law’s Brigade, Hood’s Division.



We drove along the road, past the cornfield where the majority of bodies rested by the end of the day. I kept stopping to look at all the regiment memorials along the road. There are so many. Many of the monuments listed the killed, wounded and missing.



The next stop was up a circle drive by the West Woods. This is where Sumner met Stonewall Jackson and Longstreet’s men. The obelisk is dedicated to the Philadelphia brigade that was surprised as they came, unimpeded, across the cornfield and then over a slight rise in the ground to find themselves surrounded by Confederates. Half of them were cut down in 25 minutes. 



This little plaque spoke to the kids for some reason. They both read it and took the time to point and visualize what happened at 0915 that morning almost 160 years ago.



I think maybe it was the fact that there was a visual representation of the battle movements, combined with the cannons set up for battle, and the quiet corner we were in...the kids really soaked in the gravity of this spot. Makes me wish we had more time to do one or more of the hiking trails they have set up around the area. 



We found one of three Maryland monuments of the day here. I read that one of the Maryland monuments was the only one dedicated to both Union and Confederate soldiers because Maryland sat on both sides of the fence...not against abolishing slavery, but not wanting to secede either. 






The Mumma Farm was next. All but one of the buildings is reconstructed because the Confederates burned them down for fear that the Union troops would use it for sharpshooters. One small stone building, a bit of fence and a small dirt lane are the only original remnants of the farm.



From the Mumma Farm, the Union troops battled the Confederates and pushed them back toward the Sunken Road. 



The Delaware memorial. The 1st Delaware Volunteers, 3rd Brigade 3rd Division, under Col. John W. Andrews.



5,000 casualties on this one little farm lane. The Sunken Road is also known as the Bloody Lane because some of the fiercest battling took place here, at times in point blank range.



From here we weren’t quite sure we drove in the right area. There’s a bit of renovating going on, so cones, orange ropes, and men in hard hats. But, I found a little spot to park and we meandered along the sidewalk. First up was the McKinley monument. I wasn’t quite sure why this was here...surely he didn’t die in battle BEFORE he became president. So, the interwebs explained to me that at 19 years old, he was the guy in charge of the commissary. During battle, he took it upon himself to make sure everyone had food and water between skirmishes, and under direct fire at times. This memorial was erected after his assassination. 


Burnside Bridge. The Union fought for hours to try and take this bridge, beginning at 1000 and then finally, around 1300, the 51st New York and 51st Pennsylvania broke through, ran across Antietam Creek and took the bridge. At this point in our trip the kids were ready to go. Our snacks had run out, water was running low, and they were getting Hangry. So, I told them we would go quickly by the last two stops on the tour. 


That tree on the left is the Burnside Bridge Sycamore Witness tree. There was a picture taken hours after the battle ended that shows the younger tree. Me: this tree saw a lot that day. Garytt: if this tree could talk about that day it would be a sad story; also I bet it had a lot of damage.



We saw several Ohio and Pennsylvania monuments around the battlefield. From here we drove by the next stop on the map. It was a field where outnumbered Confederate troops were under heavy attack from Union troops. Then, as the light was starting to fade on this bloody day, A.P. Hill arrived from a 14 mile march from Harper’s Ferry and they backed up the Confederate troops engaged here, managing to push back the Union forces.



Much to their annoyance....well, Kenz was ok with getting out and walking around, I made one last stop at the National Cemetery.  My usually eager to explore Boy, however, was soooooo over history for the day. He angrily walked behind us as we moved in and around this part of the cemetery. 



4,776 Federal soldiers are buried here, 1,836 of which are unknown. All told, 23,110 men were killed, wounded or missing at the end of a single day of battle. In the span of 16 hours the town of Sharpsburg had gone from quiet farm town to obliterated homesteads and mass graves for thousands. The Confederate dead were transported to three other cemeteries in Maryland and West Virginia, 60% of those bodies were unknown. 

This is the Private Soldier Monument, known locally as Old Simon.







Aside from the mumbling and grumbling of two hangry children, the day turned out pretty nice. When I paid for my entrance ticket, $10 for the vehicle, the lady said it was good for three days and I thought: what in the world would you do here for three days. Well, looking back, I could have easily wandered from place to place, down the hiking paths, and stopped at every monument, so maybe three days isn’t such a crazy idea. Next time, we’ll do it on a sunny day-or three!

Sunday, February 2, 2020

National gallery of art


We’re baaaaaaaackkkk!

Same adventurous family, new area of the Earth! From Japan to Southern Maryland, with an 18 month side-stay in Mississippi. So we’ve swapped wandering through serene temples to soaking in the history of the capital of our country. Stick with me as I work through reintroducing my mind to blogging mode.

Our first trip into DC was because of a wonderful opportunity our homeschool group arranged. The kids were able to go on a guided tour through the National Gallery of Art and learn how to see nature in art. The tour was roughly one hour and was completely free. So, we packed our freshly baked banana bread, sandwich fixings, and our trusty water bottles and hit the road around 9:20. The drive was easy....just an hour and a half from Three Notch in Lex Park to a parking garage just off I395 one block from the Mall. Oy....I was nervous about driving into DC. Probably because most of my memories of driving through DC involve my mom telling us to be quiet so she can think because she made a wrong turn in the city and she was trying to figure out how to get back to Delaware. Ya know....back on the days when there was no such thing as an iPhone *gasp* or in-car GPS *doublegasp* How we ever made it back across the Bay Bridge and home without those things is beyond what my iBrain can comprehend. 

Okay...so after parking waaaaay underground, we made our way over to the Mall to squeeze in a little exploring before our school group meeting at 1230. First up... Garytt wants a shot in front of the Mall with the Washington Monument in the background. Future photo director award goes to Garytt....”Mom, take a picture of that and send it to me!”



After scoping out the co-op meeting spot, we made our way to the Smithsonian Castle. ~A little back story...A month ago in reading, Garytt had a comprehension assignment about James Smithson and the 19 museums that were borne of his collections. His estate was designated to be used to “found in Washington...an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge of men.” Since Garytt read that article he’s determined to hit up every.single.museum. I love that Boy. 

The Castle is beautiful. But it’s really just a simple visitor center. It has samples from all of the SI museums so you can get an idea of what you will see in each. There’s also a few interactive displays in the lobby. So, you can pull up a layout of the Mall and see the time it takes to get from museum to museum, tell the computer how many hours you have, and then have the computer help plot out a plan. Then it emails the details to an address you provide. We played on this for a bit, just trying to see how long it took to get from place to place. We already had a plan for the day, so after several minutes I convinced the kids to move on. 

From the main lobby, after the security bag check, we moved away from the cafe and toward the west wing. This contained a few of the first pieces admitted to the museum and then it had several display panels telling the history of James Smithson and the museum he started. 



A lion head armchair

The final section of the Castle we checked out was what used to be the library. It’s a beautiful room! The arches....the dark colored wood....the high windows....the lights highlighting it all. Wow! Wowowow!





Alright, after we put our jackets back on we headed out to make our way to the Gallery. Aaaaafter a few shots of the Castle....directed by Garytt. 


I managed to squeeze in a little walk through the National Gallery of Art’s Sculpture Garden. The kids really enjoyed the few pieces in here. From a little house that seemed to change it’s perspective as we walked around it to the huge metal tree. 


To the thinker rabbit. 


Now...the main attraction! The National Gallery of Art. 



Once the big group was split into smaller groups: Littles, Middles, and Bigs; we found our enthusiastic guide and started our tour. 

First up....Children, explain to me what you see in this painting.  Almost every child in the group (we started the tour with about 8 kids ranging from age 8-13) raised their hand to offer their insight. They pointed out details I didn’t even see. This was my favorite of the day....probably because our guide gave a lot of interesting history details for the painting. 

“Alpine Mastiffs Reanimating a Distressed Traveller” ~ Edwin Henry Landseer 1820

I didn’t take any pictures from the next couple of sections, but Mackenzie’s favorite part was the “Voyage of Life” series of paintings by Thomas Cole, 1842. It’s a display of four paintings depicting four stages of life: childhood, adolescence, adulthood, and old age. 

The next gallery had Renoir and Monet. The kids were all given drawing pads, pencils, and a few minutes so they could sit and try to draw what they were seeing. Mackenzie lost her mind because her pencil didn’t have an eraser and apparently she can’t draw unless she has an eraser. Garytt has convulsions if I ask him to do anything ‘artsy’ because he “doesn’t do art”. 🙄 So, even though Mackenzie really liked this ballerina picture, she wouldn’t draw it. 


I did manage to convince {threaten} Garytt and he agreed to sit and draw a bridge from one of Monet’s paintings. I was sworn to secrecy though, so I can’t post a picture of his drawing. 



We did look at one more painting of a coming storm and that was supposed to be the end of our tour. However, once the guide told us that the NAG has the only da Vinci painting in the Americas, every single person in our group asked if she would show it to us. And, she agreed, happily!

“Ginevra de’ Benci 1474-ish



Our group moved on from here to explore the area a little more, but we had plans for the evening so we left at the tour’s conclusion. 

I’m not sure I’ll be able to convince the kids to spend a day exploring just this museum, but I’m pretty sure we can sneak in a section or two with each D.C. visit. Since it’s free to the public, it’s a nice little additional side trip.